Peaks in Pakistan

Pakistan is blessed with some of the most spectacular and challenging mountains on Earth. From the snow-covered Karakoram to the rugged Himalayan range, the peaks in Pakistan have long attracted climbers, trekkers, and adventurers from across the world. These mountains are not just a source of pride but also a symbol of the country’s breathtaking natural beauty.

Sirbaz Khan — A Pride of Pakistan

One of Pakistan’s most inspiring mountaineers, Sirbaz Khan, began his journey as a young porter in the valleys of Gilgit-Baltistan. Over time, through immense dedication and hard work, he became one of the country’s top climbers. He has successfully summited nine peaks over 8,000 metres (26,247 feet), including Mount Everest and K2, the two tallest mountains in the world.

Hailing from Hunza Valley, near the Chinese border, Sirbaz dreams of conquering all 14 peaks in the world above 8,000 metres — a feat only a handful of mountaineers have achieved. Since beginning his professional career in 2016, he has focused exclusively on high-altitude climbing. In 2019, he became the first Pakistani to summit Mount Lhotse (8,516 metres) in Nepal, the fourth-highest mountain in the world.

The High Peaks in Pakistan

Out of the 14 tallest peaks in the world, five are located in Pakistan, all within the northern region of Gilgit-Baltistan. These peaks include:

K2 (8,611 m) – the second-highest mountain in the world
Nanga Parbat (8,125 m) – known as the “Killer Mountain”
Gasherbrum I (8,068 m) – also called Hidden Peak
Broad Peak (8,048 m) – locally known as Falchen Kang Ri
Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) – part of the Karakoram range

Together, these mountains form part of three great mountain systems — the Himalayas, Karakoram, and Hindu Kush — which make Pakistan’s north one of the most striking and diverse mountainous regions in the world.

K2 — The Savage Mountain

Known locally as Chogori, K2 stands at an awe-inspiring 8,611 metres (28,251 feet) and is the second-highest peak on Earth. Many climbers believe K2 is even more challenging than Mount Everest due to its unpredictable weather and steep terrain.

Location and History

K2 lies in northern Pakistan, on the border shared with China, in the Karakoram Range. It was first identified and measured in 1856 by Col. T.G. Montgomerie and Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen, who named it Karakoram No. 2 (K2).

Numerous expeditions attempted to conquer the mountain, including those in 1902, 1909, 1934, 1938, 1939, and 1953, all of which failed due to the extreme conditions. Finally, on July 31, 1954, an Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio succeeded when Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni reached the summit.

The first Pakistani to reach the top of K2 was Ashraf Aman, marking a proud moment in Pakistan’s climbing history. Today, nearly every ridge of K2 has been attempted, though it remains one of the most dangerous peaks in the world.

Nanga Parbat — The Killer Mountain

Standing tall at 8,125 metres, Nanga Parbat is the second-highest mountain in Pakistan and the ninth-highest in the world. The name “Nanga Parbat” translates to “Naked Mountain” in Urdu, and it is notorious among climbers for its deadly past, earning it the nickname “Killer Mountain.”

Located in Pakistan’s Diamir District, near the Indus River, Nanga Parbat marks the western edge of the Himalayan range.

The first expedition to Nanga Parbat was organized in 1895 by Albert F. Mummery, who tragically lost his life during the climb. Several German expeditions followed in the 1930s, many of which ended in disaster due to avalanches and storms. Success finally came on July 3, 1953, when Hermann Buhl, a member of a German-Austrian team, became the first person to reach the summit solo and without supplemental oxygen — a historic achievement in mountaineering.

Broad Peak — The Mountain of Wide Horizons

Broad Peak, known locally as Falchen Kang Ri, is the fourth-highest peak in Pakistan and the twelfth-highest in the world, standing at 8,048 metres. It is located approximately 8 kilometres from K2 and forms part of the Gasherbrum massif in the Karakoram range.

The mountain gets its name from its broad, one-mile-long summit, which sets it apart from the sharp peaks around it. The first successful ascent took place on June 9, 1957, by an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck, including Kurt Diemberger, Fritz Wintersteller, and Hermann Buhl.

Gasherbrum I — The Hidden Peak

At 8,068 metres (26,470 feet), Gasherbrum I is the third-highest peak in Pakistan and the eleventh-highest in the world. The word Gasherbrum means “beautiful mountain,” though it’s often called Hidden Peak due to its secluded location.

This mountain was originally marked as K5 by T.G. Montgomery in 1856 during the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India. The alternate name “Hidden Peak” was later proposed by William Martin Conway in 1892, because of the mountain’s remote and concealed position within the Karakoram.

The first successful ascent of Gasherbrum I took place on July 5, 1958, by an American expedition led by Nick Clinch. Climbers Andy Kauffman and Pete Schoening reached the summit, accompanied by team members Bob Swift, Tom McCormack, Dick Irvin, and Gil Roberts.

Gasherbrum II — The Elegant Giant

Gasherbrum II (8,035 metres) is the fifth-highest peak in Pakistan and the thirteenth-highest in the world. It lies within the same massif as Gasherbrum I, near the head of the Baltoro Glacier.

Although it is an 8,000-metre giant, climbers often regard it as one of the “easier” high-altitude peaks due to its more stable weather and relatively straightforward route.

The first ascent was achieved on July 8, 1956, by Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart, members of an Austrian expedition. Despite being slightly more accessible, Gasherbrum II still demands technical skill, endurance, and respect for the mountain’s unpredictable conditions.

The Majesty of the Northern Peaks

The peaks in Pakistan are more than just tall summits; they represent resilience, natural grandeur, and the untamed spirit of adventure that defines Gilgit-Baltistan. Climbers from around the world continue to test their limits on these massive mountains, while local porters, guides, and climbers like Sirbaz Khan showcase Pakistan’s growing prominence in the global mountaineering community.

Whether you’re drawn to the raw power of K2, the daunting beauty of Nanga Parbat, or the calm isolation of Gasherbrum, the mountains of northern Pakistan offer an experience like no other.